Round, shiny, lined up on a belt or fixed to a hat, conchos are the most instantly recognizable western ornament after boot embroidery. Yet few people know where they come from or how to use them properly. This guide covers everything: origins, types, materials, and ways to work them into an outfit or onto an accessory.
The origins: Navajo heritage and silversmithing
The term "concho" (or concha, feminine in Spanish) comes from the Spanish word for seashell. The first conchos used in western jewelry were indeed large sea shells worn by Native peoples of the American Southwest.
Check out our complete guide: Western belts and buckles: how to choose and match them.
(Find all our tips in our cowboy boots buying guide.)In the 19th century, Navajo artisans began working silver to create metal conchos, using techniques passed down in part by Spanish silversmiths. Concho belts, leather straps fitted with silver discs, became one of the most recognizable handcrafted creations of Navajo and Pueblo culture.
When western style became popular in the 20th century, conchos moved into mainstream fashion. Today, they decorate belts, hats, boots, bags, and clothing, in versions ranging from authentic, highly worked Navajo craftsmanship to cheap industrial reproductions.
Concho shapes
The classic round concho: the original shape. A flat or slightly domed disc, often engraved or tooled with floral or geometric patterns. The central slot or two parallel slots let you thread the belt strap through without tools.
The butterfly concho: an oval shape with two side extensions that look like wings. It’s used as a clasp or as a centerpiece on a belt. More graphic than the round style, it’s popular in contemporary designs.
The scalloped concho: the edges are cut into waves or petals. More decorative, with a more feminine finish. Common in fashion western collections.
The star concho: a 5- or 6-point star shape. A more modern vibe, often linked to rock-western or cowgirl glam designs.
Materials
Sterling silver (925): the material used for high-quality handcrafted conchos. Each piece is stamped or tooled by hand by Navajo or Mexican artisans. Prices range from €20 to several hundred euros per piece. Sterling silver oxidizes over time and needs regular polishing.
Silver-plated metal (zamak or brass): the vast majority of conchos sold on the European market. They mimic the look of silver at a very accessible price, but they don’t oxidize the same way and they lose their shine faster.
Brass: gives a warmer, golden look. A different feel from silver, often associated with more rock or industrial outfits.
Nickel: whiter and shinier than brass, less expensive than silver. Common in entry-level conchos.
Wild Nord conchos are generally made from plated metal or a zinc alloy. That’s ideal for fashion and accessories, and it’s different from a handcrafted Navajo piece, which carries a completely different value.
How to mount conchos on a belt
Most conchos sold separately are designed to be installed by you on a leather belt:
- Check that the concho slot matches the width of your strap (usually 3.8 cm for a standard western belt).
- Slide the belt through the slot by threading the strap through the opening.
- For screw-back styles, a metal concho fastener or a rivet passed through the side holes keeps the piece in place so it doesn’t slide.
If you want fixed conchos (not sliding), a cobbler can rivet them permanently onto the belt.
Conchos on a cowboy hat: an underrated option
Conchos can also decorate the hatband of a cowboy hat. The effect is striking and very western. A few tips:
- Choose small conchos (2 to 3 cm) to avoid overloading the look.
- Attach them with small rivets or special hatband pins.
- Alternate conchos and turquoise for an authentic Southwest look.
To explore all the styles of western belts and buckles that pair with conchos, our western belts and buckles guide breaks down every option.
A well-chosen concho turns an ordinary piece into a signature accessory: it’s the detail that makes all the difference.
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